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Consider custom milled balusters for your porch restoration. Carefully remove an original baluster for replication. The millwork will use this as a model to create a plastic profile. The profile is placed in a copy lathe. A pin follows the profile and adjusts the knife to duplicate the balusters. When finished, the original balustrade will be restored.

A decorative wood valance adds charm to your home and you can make one yourself. Here's how: Draw the design of your choice onto a piece of rigid cardboard and carefully cut it out with a sharp utility knife. Then, transfer the template onto a piece of clear finish lumber, leave a quarter inch extra along the edge. Now, cut out your design with a saber saw and smooth off the rough edges with a file and sander.

You can save time around the house by having a few basic tools stashed in a kitchen drawer. Here are some of the most popular items: a hammer; screwdrivers, both phillips and flathead; a small tape measure; a utility knife; a torpedo level; pliers and an adjustable wrench; and the ever useful duct tape. Most important don't forget to put everything back when you are finished.

Before starting your next paint job, have your tools ready. For the prep, you'll need putty, a putty knife, sandpaper, masking tape, drop cloths, wash buckets, rags and liners. You may also need a step ladder for those hard to reach areas. Of course, you will also need the right brushes and rollers for the job.

Here's a way to replace damaged ceramic tile. Remove the grout with a grout saw. Crack the tile with a hammer and cold chisel. Remove adhesive with an old chisel or putty knife. Apply latex tile adhesive to the new tiles and press firmly into place. Force grout into the joints removing the excess and avoid contact for 24 hours.

Here s another great tip from BobVila.com. Drywall has been the wall finishing material of choice for most of a century because it s so easy to install and finish. Another of its virtues is that when it s damaged, it s easy to repair. For scratches or small dents, a quick swipe of joint compound with a 3- or 4-inch putty knife and a bit of sanding before priming and painting will do fine. For small holes up to 3 inches, self-adhesive plastic mesh tape and then a coat or two of patching compound will work. For medium-sized holes between 4 and 6 inches, try a drywall bandage. Check to make sure there s no electrical wiring in the area first, then use a keyhole saw to cut the hole into a neat square or rectangle. Transfer that shape onto a piece of new drywall, add 2-inch margins and cut out the larger patch piece. Trim off the back and gypsum in the 2-inch margin but leave the face paper uncut. Spread patching compound around the outside edges of the hole and press the bandage into it, feathering the edges. Let it dry. Then sand and re-coat with compound. Finally, sand again, prime and paint. For really big holes, you can use the tie and twist bracing method. Cut a piece of drywall or a length of 2x4 a few inches larger than the hole. Drill two small holes in the center and loop a 2-foot string through it like a button. Tie the ends around the middle of a stick. Apply adhesive to the back edges of the hole inside the wall. Adhere the patch piece and twist the stick from your side of the wall until it holds tight. Then, fill the remaining space with drywall patch pieces and mesh tape. Finish with compound as usual, cutting the string and pulling it out just before it dries. For super-large holes bigger than a foot wide, cut the drywall back to the two nearest studs and expose them halfway. Cut a new panel of drywall to fit and attach it as you normally would with drywall screws, joint compound and tape. Find out more at BobVila.com: the ultimate home improvement web site! 2008 BobVila.com