Here s another great tip from BobVila.com. Although the two words are often used interchangeably, sheetrock is actually a brand name for drywall, which is gypsum sandwiched between two sheets of paper or, more recently, between two sheets of fiberglass. Any way you say it, drywall makes finishing walls very practical. For large jobs or those with very high ceilings, hire a pro. But most smaller jobs can be tackled by do-it-yourselfers. Before you get started, run the side of a hammer head along the framing to check for uneven surfaces or any protruding staples or nails. The tools you ll need are a straightedge and measuring tape for sizing your pieces, a utility knife for scoring and snapping, and a keyhole saw or rotary tool for cutting holes for outlets and windows. While some pros still attach drywall with nails, most find it easier to use an electric drill and that wonderful multi-purpose fastener, the drywall screw. You ll need about a pound of nails or screws for every 5 sheets of drywall. Metalcorner beads go on all outside corners; inside corners get taped along with the joints between panels. Using pre-mixed joint compound is easier and less messy than mixing your own. You want a mix that s not too quick-drying if you re a beginner so you have a grace period to work in. Pros use about 5 gallons of compound for every 100 square feet, but you may need more depending on your level of experience. Installing drywall involves a series of short steps over a 3- to 4-day period. Follow the steps on BobVila.com for taping and finishing joints, and be sure to wear safety gear and a dust mask while sanding. If you re doing a ceiling, get a helper or a drywall lift. Find out more at BobVila.com: the ultimate home improvement web site! 2008 BobVila.com
John McEvoy of Thorough Construction is leading the crew for the drywall installation. They have chosen DensArmor Plus, a 5/8-inch fiberglass-faced drywall from Georgia-Pacific. Eliminating the paper or organic materials from the drywall makes it mold and mildew resistant. The thicker drywall will make for stiffer walls, especially since they are so high, at twelve-and-a-half feet throughout. McEvoy decides on a vertical installation since the boards are exactly four feet wide, which will make for less cutting and fitting. He shows how corners are made with steel studs as the first piece of drywall slides into the corner pocket, a metal stud is secured in front of that, and another sheet comes in at a 90-degree angle to be nailed onto the studs in back.
Bob joins Dan Gerry from Tranquility Plumbing as they punch holes in the metal studs for the CPVC tubing that will carry the hot and cold water through the house. Gerry admits that it is somewhat easier to install plumbing in metal studs, because it's faster to punch out the metal than to drill standard wood framing. Gerry also describes how drains, waste pipes, and flow pipes were set before the slab was poured. The CPVC pipe runs through the punched holes and is fitted with pipe tights to protect the pipe from puncture and eliminate noise from vibrating pipes against metal studs. Bob watches as a sink tie-in is cut, fitted, and installed with adhesive.
Bob meets Denny Ruffini to see how a metal stud wall is built in the basement. Bob explains his decision for choosing metal, inculding water damage and termite prevention. The wall is quickly installed with self tapping screws and secured to the new concrete floor.
joint compound knife. Step 4: Apply metal bead to an outside corner Measure and cut a length of metalcorner bead to fit the outside corner. Apply into the stud behind it. Press the metalcorner bead in place and secure it with drywall
easier to apply than the toughest metal bead corner available. No-Coat Corners are tapered, impact-resistant plastic corner laminated between joint tape on all-purpose mud, the No-Coat Corner becomes part of the structure
An Owens Corning "Basement Finishing System" is being installed at the sister project house. Bob takes us through the framing process, which begins with steel studs. Metal studs are used in the basement in part due to their resistance to moisture and fire. The wall and ceiling support system are measured and installed first. A high-tech laser transit level is used to guide the installation of the upper wall panel and trim support pieces. A companion low-tech 45-degree plywood angle is then attached as a guide for joining corner pieces. Around windows, the crew assembles and secures custom framing. A suspended ceiling hides the plumbing and electrical systems typically found in basements while still allowing access to the home's mechanical systems. Finally, the wall panels are installed. The panels are constructed from R-11 insulation covered with a permeable finish that allows the foundation to "breathe." The wall panels, which do not contain any cellulose products, will not support mold or mildew growth.