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Tim McLaughlin from Color Wheel Paints and coatings is with Bob as the house is sprayed with its finish coat of the Flex Lox Masonry Coating System. McLaughlin explains how a subtropical climate South Florida�s degrades a paint surface with its heat, sun, and damaging UV rays, forcing it to crack and peel. Bob watches as the crew sprays on the terra cotta colored Flex Lox finish coat over a lighter primer. McLaughlin explains that using a lighter shade underneath helps the crew to avoid skips and maintain solid coverage across the surface. The crew uses a sprayer set at 2,000 psi (pounds per square inch) to apply a heavy finish coat that is wet rolled to push the paint into the nooks and crannies of the heavily textured surface. Flex Lox is a hybrid latex and elastomeric surface coating that stretches to cover surface cracks and voids. McLaughlin uses a water force test to show how the Flex Lox protects against water infiltration with wind-driven rain. McLaughlin uses a block of stucco with two rilem tubes protruding and a hairline crack running across its face. The left side is painted with a traditional 3 mil thick coat of latex acrylic paint. The right side is covered with Flex Lox built up to 8 mils thick. When the water is poured into the tubes its force is equal to that of rain hitting the surface at 88 miles per hour. The water immediately breaks through the crack under the latex paint but does not break through the Flex Lox. McLaughlin also shows Bob the tool that is used to measure the thickness of each coat at application. With the Flex Lox system, the goal is to apply the finish coat to 10 mils thick and let it dry to 5 mils.

If you have older walls in your home, they may not need any primer before you re-paint them. Try sprinkling a little water on the surface. If the water beads up, it means that the wall is still sealed and doesn't need a new coat of primer.

Bob talks to Ed Waller from CertaPro Painters about painting of the guest bedroom in the Melrose, Massachusetts, project. Waller explains that the paint being used is a latex paint which does not contain VOC's (volatile organic compounds). As a result, the room is free from noxious odors even as the paint is being applied. The no VOC paint actually holds to the walls better and is only a little more expensive than conventional paints. Two coats will be applied in this project so no spots are missed. Bob notes how the paint is being applied over the molding. Waller explains this is so no spots are missed and when they go back to paint the trim, a craftsman will paint with precise, straight lines to cover any molding gaps where it meets the wall. Bob is surprised that the radiator has been painted, but Waller says old radiators are often painted with latex paint with no negative effect on their heating ability. Bob asks how to find a good painter. Waller looks at the previous work they have done and who they have worked for, then trains them properly with full supervision in the field. Waller encourages the use of an extension pole when painting as, for a minor cost, it helps the painting process greatly. Weller also encourages painting in a direction from floor to ceiling to apply the paint evenly across the wall. When it comes to painting the trim, the crew uses a semi-gloss no VOC paint from the Sherwin Williams Harmony line. The primer that was used was also a no VOC paint from the same line. Painting the trim requires a steady hand and is the measure of a good paint job. Expensive brushes with synthetic, flared bristles are used while painting latex on the trim. Waller reviews proper painting technique using a pail to hold the paint, and gently tapping the sides of the pail with the brush to get rid of excessive paint before applying. Weller also gives tips for painting older panel doors. The door is painted entirely by brush rather than roller and work is done with tough stuff first working inside to out, top to bottom, and left to right. Bob reminds viewers to tape the hinges and remove the doorknobs and keyhole covers before painting. The tape is removed before the paint dries completely.

Bob is joined by Thad Goodman of Georgia-Pacific as their DensArmor Plus fiberglass-faced drywall is installed in a Mashpee, Massachusetts home. This gypsum-based drywall is just like traditional drywall, but is encased in tightly woven glass mats instead of paper. Removing the paper eliminates the host for mositure, mold, and mildew. If it does get wet, the fiberglass-faced drywall dries without delaminating so there are no replacement or repair costs down the line. Skipper Craft, of E. Miller & Sons Drywall, tells Bob that installation is the same for this product and traditional drywall. It is a bit heavierthan paper-faced drywall, but cuts and installs the same way. The drywall is taped with a self-adhering nylon tape on all the seams and with paper tape in the corners for a stronger finish. Drywall compound is applied to the seams before they prime the walls. This drywall will take a veneer plaster coat or paint directly on the surface. Using fiberglass-faced drywall will add about one dollar per square foot to the initial cost of the home, but will save money over time since it will not absorb moisture, delaminate, or need replacing over time.

Here s another great tip from BobVila.com. Drywall has been the wall finishing material of choice for most of a century because it s so easy to install and finish. Another of its virtues is that when it s damaged, it s easy to repair. For scratches or small dents, a quick swipe of joint compound with a 3- or 4-inch putty knife and a bit of sanding before priming and painting will do fine. For small holes up to 3 inches, self-adhesive plastic mesh tape and then a coat or two of patching compound will work. For medium-sized holes between 4 and 6 inches, try a drywall bandage. Check to make sure there s no electrical wiring in the area first, then use a keyhole saw to cut the hole into a neat square or rectangle. Transfer that shape onto a piece of new drywall, add 2-inch margins and cut out the larger patch piece. Trim off the back and gypsum in the 2-inch margin but leave the face paper uncut. Spread patching compound around the outside edges of the hole and press the bandage into it, feathering the edges. Let it dry. Then sand and re-coat with compound. Finally, sand again, prime and paint. For really big holes, you can use the tie and twist bracing method. Cut a piece of drywall or a length of 2x4 a few inches larger than the hole. Drill two small holes in the center and loop a 2-foot string through it like a button. Tie the ends around the middle of a stick. Apply adhesive to the back edges of the hole inside the wall. Adhere the patch piece and twist the stick from your side of the wall until it holds tight. Then, fill the remaining space with drywall patch pieces and mesh tape. Finish with compound as usual, cutting the string and pulling it out just before it dries. For super-large holes bigger than a foot wide, cut the drywall back to the two nearest studs and expose them halfway. Cut a new panel of drywall to fit and attach it as you normally would with drywall screws, joint compound and tape. Find out more at BobVila.com: the ultimate home improvement web site! 2008 BobVila.com

The technique of faux painting adds grace and sophistication to any room. Striped effects create rich textures and handmade detail that cannot be matched by wallpaper patterns, and they make a room with a low ceiling appear taller.