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Here s another great tip from BobVila.com. To help you wade through the sea of choices for new kitchen countertops, take a long, hard look at how they compare for durability and maintenance. Having a clear idea of the amount of work you re willing to do to maintain and protect your new investment will make the decision less complex. Take stone, for example. After millions of years in the Earth, granite, marble and travertine are naturally hard and beautiful and for $50 to $100 per square foot, they can grace your kitchen. But they re also naturally porous, so you ll have to seal them every few years with a non-toxic sealer. Some kinds of natural stone can stain with acidic foods and can even crack if you put a very hot pot directly on them. Some, like slate long used for laboratory countertops are better than others at taking the heat and acids, but oils can darken them and they are prone to scratching. Engineered quartz stone, at the same price point, has solved some of the maintenance problems of natural stone. It s non-porous, twice as strong and tough to scratch or crack. Like anything else, though, even high-end countertops are only as good as their installation, so check references on whoever is going to do the work to make sure you start off with the best finish possible. Wood countertops require mineral oil treatments and occasional sanding for stains. Solid surfaces don t require treatment and scratches can be buffed away easily. But using trivets or pads under hot pots is important to avoid damaging any wood or plastic surface. Regardless of your budget, think about the way you cook and clean and how much extra work you re willing to do before you choose a material. Your new countertop should fit the way you live, not the other way around. Find out more at BobVila.com: the ultimate home improvement web site! 2008 BobVila.com

Here s another great tip from BobVila.com. If your kitchen s begging for a facelift but your budget begs to differ, try focusing on some key details instead of a major overhaul. If the cabinets are still in good shape, you can change the look of your kitchen just by changing the color of the walls and re-surfacing or re-painting the cabinets. Cabinet re-facing, which involves replacing the veneers, is more expensive but still saves 50 percent over a complete remodel. As long as your cabinets aren t laminate or melamine, you can re-paint them yourself. De-grease them with a citrus oil-based household cleaner, remove the doors and hardware, and apply a primer-sealer first though you might still have to sand them down before painting. New drawer and door pulls will make a huge difference as well. In rethinking your colors, go for a 60-30-10 color scheme, which means 60 percent of a main color, 30 percent of a complementary color and 10 percent for an accent color like a backsplash or a trim detail. Recommended kitchen colors often include shades of tan, peach, yellow and all the many off-whites. Keep the big-ticket items like cabinets on the neutral side and accent with easily interchangeable elements like wall paint, window treatments and small appliances. That way, changing the look of your kitchen in another few years won t have to be a major investment. Florescent under-cabinet lighting strips are an easy and inexpensive way to brighten up. And since you use it so often, spending a couple hundred dollars to upgrade the kitchen sink or even just the faucet can also go a long way for short money. Find out more at BobVila.com: the ultimate home improvement web site! 2008 BobVila.com

Evan Zgonis and the crew form Olympia Marble and Granite are on site, installing the marble countertops in the kitchen. The slabs weigh about 300 pounds and the crew takes extra care in lining each piece up correctly. Once each slab is in place, a bead of silicone is applied to the bottom to secure it. In addition, a silicone-based sealer is applied to the top to help prevent staining.

Birger Juell visits the home to supervise instalation of this unique floor. Use 3/8 or 1/2 inch thickness of wood. Type of wood is user preference but it should be as dry as possible. The wood tiles can be just about any size or shape as long as they are not too large or warping will occur. The grout for the cobblewood flooring is composed of sawdust from the wood mixed with a fast-drying oil-based sealer in a ratio of 2 parts sawdust to 1 part sealer add any stain to grout to your liking.Insure you have a standard sub-floor. First glue floor down, use regular tile mastic as an adhesive. rubber based instead of Water based is best. Let set for two days... Then grout, Pour the grout on the floor push it into the cracks using a rubber trowel or your hands. Trowel in the grout. Squeegee off the excess. Steel wool the face of the wood tiles to remove any remaining excess grout that could dry to the top of the bricks. Let it sit over night and then apply another coat of oil-based sealer the next day. Let set for one day. Then do final coat of varnish, stain etc. Maintain like any wood floor. Oil it every 2 years using wood floor oil. Varnish once a year. Buff once a month.

Bob and Jim Kogut talk about the custom inlays that are being inserted into the new vinyl flooring. Ed Janecek tapes down a sheet of white vinyl flooring and double cuts the piece through the already installed vinyl according to predetermined chalk lines. By keeping the straight edge over the piece that is going into the floor he avoids cutting into the piece and marring the product. Next he takes the tape off and removes the scraps and then removes the insert that he has cut into the floor. He cuts off some of the backing underneath as well ensuring a flush fit. Then Janecek spreads a latex adhesive product on the square. He sets the square piece in the corner and presses it out from there. Once the piece is in place Janecek uses a roller to flatten any bumps in the adhesive and to make sure the piece is secure. He uses a seam roller to tighten the seam and then a seam sealer with a solvent that fuses the two pieces together.

Jesse Bartusek from Bellawood joins Bob for the installation of the Bellawood Brazilian Walnut, also called Ipe. The first step, Bartusek explains, is to monitor the moisture content in the concrete so that there will be no cupping of the wood from excessive moisture levels. A moisture barrier is put down between the concrete and the wood to ensure a dry seat. The sealer and the adhesive are both polyurethane based. Once the adhesive is troweled on, the crew has between 30 and 45 minutes to install the planks. The planks are laid out and hammered with a rubber mallet to put them in place. The crew then tapes the boards because the adhesive has memory and will pull boards back to their initial positions if not held in place. Tapping all the boards in place, or racking out the floor, can force some glue up onto the surface. It must be removed with a special adhesive remover. The patterns and colors in the wood tend to vary because it is a natural product. The eight-layer aluminum oxide finish provides long wear that is guaranteed for 50 years by Bellawood. The tape will stay in place for at least four hours but is recommended for 24.

Bob meets with Wes Lohr, the general contractor for the River Hill homes, as his crew sets the sill and the first floor deck to frame the new house. Lohr shows Bob how the sill is constructed of pressure-treated lumber set on top of a sill sealer that protects the wood from wicking moisture in the concrete foundation. The pressure-treated lumber is drilled to receive the sill posts from the foundation, then bolted down to hold the decking tight to the base. The deck for the house is built of 2X10 kiln-dried lumber and 3/4-inch tongue-and-groove sheathing. The sheathing is first glued then nailed to the joists. Bob marvels at the speed of modern construction with a first floor deck and walls that can be completed in a day. Lohr estimates that the structure of the house and the roof will be complete in five or six days, with two more days of work to shingle the roof.