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To protect new shingles, apply a penetrating stain. Stain soaks in and protects the wood from the weather, and won't crack, peel, or chip. Brush liberally along the bottom edges of each course then over the face of the shingles with a generous coat of stain. Start on the top course and work your way down. For an authentic weather look, use a transparent stain.
Give your molding or finish work a seamless, professional look. Here' s how: Be sure to use finish nails or smaller brads for this kind of work. Be careful not to "divet" the wood by hammering too much. Tap gently with a nail set to sink the nail heads below the surface of the wood, hide the holes with wood filler and sand when dry for a smooth finish, ready for paint or stain.
Here s another great tip from BobVila.com. Water spots on ceilings and walls aren t just unsightly they can be a symptom of a much bigger problem that needs attention. But you can t just paint over the spot. You first have to find the source of the water that caused it. Blistering or peeling paint, loose plaster, yellow or brown streaks, and spotting are all caused by chemicals in the wall material reacting to water that shouldn t be there. Inspect your roof, attic, gutters, trim, windows and siding carefully to find the source of the leak. If you re in doubt, an experienced builder will usually know where to look. An interior leak from a toilet or pipe or condensation from an attic duct could also be the culprit. If your kitchen or bath isn t properly vented to the outside, humidity can build up in the attic or behind walls and start moisture problems. Once you ve tracked down and fixed the source, you can work on clearing up the cosmetic damage. For painted wood or trim, remove the blistering or peeling paint, sand, apply an enamel undercoat, sand and coat again. For isolated spots on drywall, wash the area with detergent but don t soak it. When it s thoroughly dry, apply a stain-blocker or sealer to keep the stain from bleeding through. Paint over it when the sealer s dry. If the leak involved sewage or gray water or mold has started to grow, it s best to remove all of the affected material. Drywall that s soft, sagging or crumbling can only be replaced. And if there s electrical wiring in the affected area, get an electrician to inspect it before you close up the wall. Find out more at BobVila.com: the ultimate home improvement web site! 2008 BobVila.com
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Test The walls in the shower are nearly complete as the crew gets ready to grout the Vitrus GlassTile they've installed. Bob shows how glass tile differs from ceramic tile, giving an artistic, light-filled, fluid-green look to the bathroom. Bob also explains the special grout that is used to completely mildew- and stain-proof the tiles. Lichen-colored SpectraLOCK grout, with a Microban mildew inhibitor, is mixed with Glow Dazzle, which will give a luminous green complement to the Vitrus tile. This epoxy grout completely seals the tile installation, will not discolor, stain, or change the effect of the glass tile over time. Bob watches as the epoxy grout is applied, first in a thick layer, then pushed into every crack between the tiles.
Bob reviews some of the work done on the house so far. The house was built in 1921 and the exterior stucco walls are in good shape overall. The woodwork, however, was in bad shape as it is 80 year-old wood combined with New England winters. Most of the wood trim was repaired using western red cedar. The gutters on the gambrel roof were also replaced. The porch columns were repaired after suffering insect damage. These stone columns were filled with concrete by mason Kevin Latham. Some new stucco was added where the back door was removed and replaced with a new slider and small window. To add this stucco wall, wire lath is placed over felt paper and plywood. Then a brown coat is added and allowed to cure before the finish coat goes on. Fergus Cullen of CertaPro Painters reviews the issues involved with painting the house. Different parts of the home's exterior are older than others. The old stucco is in good shape, while the new stucco needs to be primed and painted using a couple of coats. The window uses a couple of different materials. The frame has been replaced with Azek, which does not need to be painted but will be painted to match the rest of the trim. The Azek is especially effective in areas where there is a lot of moisture and rot may be a problem. The natural wood surrounding the window will also be primed and painted to match everything else. In some areas the old paint is peeling off in sheets and "alligatoring" or creating check marks in the paint. The old paint used in these sections is likely lead paint and does not have the flexibility New England winter and summer temperature fluctuations. All the areas with chipping and peeling paint will be scraped down, the edges sanded, and then primed. When complete, the texture will be retained but there will be no chipping or peeling involved. Some shingles on the lip of the roof have sustained significant water damage. The damaged shingles are replaced and painted with a solid color stain. This stain looks like paint but penetrates into the wood. There will be a little difference in texture between the old shingles and the new, which comes with having an older home. The most important thing to remember when painting at the end of the season is overnight temperatures. Painting is possible as long as the overnight temperatures are above 35 degrees Fahrenheit. The paint must be given time to cure at the proper temperatures. Painting is also not possible during times of high humidity, which is a problem that plagues hot, humid climates in the South.
Jay Triandafilou and a crew from Architectural Fence are on location to install the exterior fence in this episode. The fence is a square spindle ornamental picket fence made from white cedar with an opaque stain finish. The fence is installed section by section, progressing along the length of its run. The first step is to determine the landscape's grade, and set the first support post directly into the ground at a predetermined height. Postholes are dug using a mini Bobcat-like skid steer that is fitted with a boring attachment. The crew first digs a posthole about three feet deep, and then makes fine adjustments to the hole's depth with a shovel. With the post in the hole, it is checked for level and plumb, and then the hole is backfilled. Next, a section fence is brought in and attached to the post. The fence is checked for level and plumb before being secured, and then the next post is installed.
Bob and painting contractor Milo Moran roll solid stain inside the boat barn on the yellow pine plywood walls. While stain is not usually used on inside walls, a single coat in this application works well to add a touch of color without completely eliminating the wood texture.
Bob checks out painter Mike Suarez spraying water-based stain on the exterior. In a counter intuitive approach Mike starts out low and works his way up the side of the house. This is to get the bottom side of each shingle. They put on two coats of the water-based stain from Sears. The first one thinned down so it deeply sinks into the wood. Bob takes a tour of Martha�s Vineyard with paint consultant Sherry Hiller to look at local color schemes. Bob visits the most often photographed house on the vineyard, the Wooden Valentine, in shades of pink. These are not traditional Victorian colors but are historic to the Campground area�s �Ice Cream Shop� colors.
Bob talks with Dean Stewart of Woodport Doors about the interior door being installed. The door is a four-panel contemporary door with mission sticking, commonly referred to as a Shaker-style door. The door features an engineered-wood core with a birch-veneer face. Since it was not clear if the homeowner wanted to stain or paint the door, birch was selected because of its versatility. The engineered wood is a high-density material, making the door stabler and resistant to problems like warping.
Bob talks with Al Roberta who is painting the Medford house. The house needed a lot of prep work before painting. The home's original wood shingles had been covered for 30 to 40 years by manmade shingles during which time they had gotten pretty baked and oxygen-starved and subsequently brittle. Some of the shingles were replaced but for budget reasons those that could be were saved leaving behind a patchwork of new and old shingles to be painted. Al is using an oil-based primer from Sherwin Williams that will both seal the house giving it a nice hard shell and also act as a stain-blocking agent as the new cedar shingles have a tendency to bleed. Al is applying the primer with either a small 3-inch roller or with a cutting brush. It's not an easy job to paint a house with so many angles. The finish coat is a latex topcoat. It's a Sherwin Williams Duration product that goes on twice as thick as conventional paint. The topcoat is rolled and back-brushed. Weather-permitting the job should take about three week.
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