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For a lot of jobs around the house, using a staple gun can be a lot faster and easier than banging tacks and nails. The most common staple gun is the hand-powered, springloaded variety. Standard guns accept staples from one quarter to nine sixteenths of an inch long. For a real time and energy saver, try a hammer stapler; the impact of the head with the surface releases the staple.

Here s another great tip from BobVila.com. Although the two words are often used interchangeably, sheetrock is actually a brand name for drywall, which is gypsum sandwiched between two sheets of paper or, more recently, between two sheets of fiberglass. Any way you say it, drywall makes finishing walls very practical. For large jobs or those with very high ceilings, hire a pro. But most smaller jobs can be tackled by do-it-yourselfers. Before you get started, run the side of a hammer head along the framing to check for uneven surfaces or any protruding staples or nails. The tools you ll need are a straightedge and measuring tape for sizing your pieces, a utility knife for scoring and snapping, and a keyhole saw or rotary tool for cutting holes for outlets and windows. While some pros still attach drywall with nails, most find it easier to use an electric drill and that wonderful multi-purpose fastener, the drywall screw. You ll need about a pound of nails or screws for every 5 sheets of drywall. Metal corner beads go on all outside corners; inside corners get taped along with the joints between panels. Using pre-mixed joint compound is easier and less messy than mixing your own. You want a mix that s not too quick-drying if you re a beginner so you have a grace period to work in. Pros use about 5 gallons of compound for every 100 square feet, but you may need more depending on your level of experience. Installing drywall involves a series of short steps over a 3- to 4-day period. Follow the steps on BobVila.com for taping and finishing joints, and be sure to wear safety gear and a dust mask while sanding. If you re doing a ceiling, get a helper or a drywall lift. Find out more at BobVila.com: the ultimate home improvement web site! 2008 BobVila.com

Now that the WarmZone radiant-floor heat has been installed, it's time to put the finish flooring on. The homeowners selected a Bellawood white oak, tongue-and-groove floor with an oxidized finish for a 50-year guarantee. Since the flooring will be nailed over the hyrdronic heat tubing, it is critical to avoid puncturing the tubes. General contractor Tim Berky is installing the flooring perpendicular to the tubing, which allows him to see the Pex at all times and avoid nailing into it. Berky shows Bob how he began the installation with the second course cut to receive the supply and return pipes and sited half way over the first loop, which initially runs parallel to the wall and is hidden from view. By starting his courses this way, he can set the power-assist nailer to drive the two-inch galvanized staples at an angle just above the tongue without fear of puncturing the tubing. While Berky shoots the staples, Bob points out how the entire floor and substrate is effectively a green application since it is all wood, which is a renewable resource. The advantage, he says, is that trees are planted every time the resource is used, resulting in increased planting and forest protection. The wood floor will cover the entire space, even under the cabinetry and appliances, to create an even floor and provide full finish flooring should the homeowners wish to remodel in the future.