BobVila.com

Here s another great tip from BobVila.com. U.S. Gypsum developed a way to sandwich plaster between two paper faces and make wallboard as early as World War I, but the manpower shortage of World War II is what really made it catch on. Before drywall, builders nailed lengths of wood, called lath, to the studs and then applied several coats of plaster to that for a smooth finish. As many of us with old houses can attest, lath and plaster walls can last a long time but they re hard to deal with if you re having rewiring, insulation and plumbing needs. Drywall comes in various thicknesses. For interior walls, one-half-inch works fine but won t stand up to heavy abuse. Five-eighth-inch is required for fire hazard walls like garages and basement entries. Standard paper-faced drywall is grey and comes in 4x8 or 4x12 sheets, designed to make it easy to cover from stud to stud with minimal cutting. But even cutting is made easy. Most drywall scores and snaps with a simple utility knife. Holes can be cut by hand with a short keyhole saw or a small rotary tool. Special fiberglass-faced drywall was recently introduced to help prevent mold problems that can develop when traditional paper-faced drywall gets wet. This new product finishes just like paper-faced drywall with tape and joint compound. Behind tile, in bathrooms and in other wet areas, it s important to use cement board. This denser product is waterproof and faced with fiberglass mesh that won t degrade or mold when it gets wet. In the past, some builders used a product called green board in bathrooms, but time has shown that this product is not a good substitute for cement board. Find out more at BobVila.com: the ultimate home improvement web site! 2008 BobVila.com

Here s another great tip from BobVila.com. Although the two words are often used interchangeably, sheetrock is actually a brand name for drywall, which is gypsum sandwiched between two sheets of paper or, more recently, between two sheets of fiberglass. Any way you say it, drywall makes finishing walls very practical. For large jobs or those with very high ceilings, hire a pro. But most smaller jobs can be tackled by do-it-yourselfers. Before you get started, run the side of a hammer head along the framing to check for uneven surfaces or any protruding staples or nails. The tools you ll need are a straightedge and measuring tape for sizing your pieces, a utility knife for scoring and snapping, and a keyhole saw or rotary tool for cutting holes for outlets and windows. While some pros still attach drywall with nails, most find it easier to use an electric drill and that wonderful multi-purpose fastener, the drywall screw. You ll need about a pound of nails or screws for every 5 sheets of drywall. Metal corner beads go on all outside corners; inside corners get taped along with the joints between panels. Using pre-mixed joint compound is easier and less messy than mixing your own. You want a mix that s not too quick-drying if you re a beginner so you have a grace period to work in. Pros use about 5 gallons of compound for every 100 square feet, but you may need more depending on your level of experience. Installing drywall involves a series of short steps over a 3- to 4-day period. Follow the steps on BobVila.com for taping and finishing joints, and be sure to wear safety gear and a dust mask while sanding. If you re doing a ceiling, get a helper or a drywall lift. Find out more at BobVila.com: the ultimate home improvement web site! 2008 BobVila.com

Brece Rupolt of Northern Marble & Granite meets with Bob to discuss the countertop template that needs to be made before cutting. Brece makes his template from a sheet of polystyrene plastic, which is flexible and can be rolled up for easy transport. He then stiffens empty spaces with steel yard sticks to continue the straight surface and measure the countertop. First he locates the sink opening and faucet holes. Walls are rarely square, so next he cuts to fit the walls. He takes the ruler and measures the difference from one end to the other and makes a cut to fit the wall. At the other end her marks on the bottom where the finished end will be and adds a radius at the corner to soften it up. Next Brece makes an opening for the under-counter double Kohler sink using a paper template. He cuts out the template on the cutting line with a utility knife and transfers the outline of the paper template to the plastic. Using his knife and a straight edge, he cuts out the opening for the sink. This is the traditional method of making a template. Next Bob meets with Paul Hansen of E-Template to discuss how a template can be made electronically. Paul places markers on each straight section of the tops of the cabinets to outline where the countertop will go. He also places other markers to identify special sink cutouts. Many times a sink or stovetop manufacturer will provide an electronic template to add to your custom e-template. Paul also uses a scale of a known length to help define the precision of the countertop. Then he takes two or more digital photographs from different angles. The photographs are downloaded into a computer aided design program to create a template and then cut by machine.

Bob meets up with Charlie Tomaszewski, the general contractor for the Medford renovation project, in the home's existing master bedroom. While awaiting the arrival of the demolition crew, Charlie and Bob carefully remove the old dressing room door with a full mirror so that it can be reused elsewhere in the finished house. The first step is to pull the pins on the hinges which Charlie will tape to the door so they don't get lost. To take the casings off, Charlie first cuts the paint line along the casing with a utility knife. This is particularly important if you plan to preserve the existing plaster wall. Next Charlie removes the decorative rosettes from the upper corners before he and Bob pull out the casing.

Carpet tiles, also known as carpet squares or modular carpeting, are easily installed side-by-side to create a smooth, carpeted floor that looks just like wall-to-wall carpeting.

Replacing torn or damaged screens in an aluminum or wooden window or door is an easy project.

Cracked and broken bathroom tiles are easily removed and replaced. There may be water damage to the backing behind the tile, so be prepared for a longer job.