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Weatherstripping Doors and Windows for Energy Savings
Weatherstripping Doors and Windows for Energy Savings

Weatherstripping is an easy way to block cold or…
…and stop up the air leaks with weatherstripping. On a windy day, run your hand…
…Step 2: Measure the space for weatherstripping Weatherstrip adhesives are easy…

Jump To: How To Library » Weatherizing

Caulk and Weatherstripping
Caulk and Weatherstripping

…air quality Because caulk and weatherstripping limit indoor-outdoor air circulation…
…Weather Stripping Selection - Weatherstripping can seal leaks around movable joints…
…doors. You need to choose a type of weatherstripping that will withstand the friction…

Jump To: How To Library » Weatherizing

How to Add Weatherstripping to Doors and Windows for Energy Savings
How to Add Weatherstripping to Doors and Windows for Energy Savings

Weatherstripping is an easy way to block cold or hot air from entering the home around doors, windows and electrical plates.

Weatherstripping for double hung windows

…been repaired and the paint stripped. However, now they are very loose in the frames, with much rattling with the wind and noise from the street. Is there any type of weatherstripping or other solution to tighten up the windows?

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Cool Windows
Cool Windows

Here s another great tip from BobVila.com. Before you add to your electric bill trying to keep cool this summer, add something to your windows instead. The first principle of passive cooling is to keep the heat from getting inside. Even though it seems like a wintertime activity, weatherstripping your windows and doors and caulking gaps can really make a difference in summer, too. There are lots of ways to shade your windows from the sun, and if they seem a little old-fashioned, it s because they worked even before there was air conditioning. Large roof overhangs and porches, awnings, shutters and louvers can all be seen on old southern homes. Awnings can actually reduce summer heat gain by up to three-quarters. And you can remove them in winter to let the sunlight in when you need it. Light-colored awnings are best because they deflect more heat. Solar screens are another option. Installed outdoors, they can cut heat gain in half, and you can still enjoy the view. Interior window treatments aren t quite as effective as the outdoor methods, but they re better than nothing. Densely woven fabric drapes, Venetian blinds or roller shades will control some heat gain just by keeping out direct sunlight. Again, lighter colors are most effective. If you re replacing your windows, ask about low-E glass. A low-E, or low-emissivity coating, depending on which surface of the window it s applied to, can keep heat where you want it and keep your costs down year-round. Find out more at BobVila.com: the ultimate home improvement web site! 2008 BobVila.com

Insulation Basics
Insulation Basics

Here's another great tip from BobVila.com. How much insulation does your home need and where? It depends on your climate and the energy costs in your area. The basic principle is that you want to keep heat energy from doing what it does best: dissipating to colder areas. The best way is to trap a layer of air next to the heat source. In new framing, sprayed-on polyurethane foam, fiberglass or cellulose do a good job of providing this layer before the drywall goes up. If you re retrofitting your insulation, you can still spray in cellulose through holes cut from the interior or the exterior. To find out what insulation will work best in your home, you ll want to know the recommended insulation r-values in your area. R-value is the measure of a material s resistance to heat flow. The higher the value, the more effective it is. To see the recommended insulation r-values and cost estimates in your ZIP code, visit the Department of Energy s web site. Even a small draft can make your insulation less effective. Seal any gaps around electrical outlets, ducts, windows and doors with foam sealants, caulking or weatherstripping. The most important area to insulate is your attic. Make sure you ve got at least the attic floor insulated with blown-in or batt insulation to your area s recommended r-value, and consider insulating the roof and attic walls as well. This can provide a fully insulated buffer zone to keep heat where you want it and keep the lid on your energy costs. Find out more at BobVila.com: The ultimate home improvement web site! BobVila.com 2008

Weatherstripping

I have an Andersen sliding Patio door. Recently noticed that the flexible weatherstiipping gasket that is on the side where door slides in and out is cracked. How can I fix or replace this?

Jump To: Bulletin Board » Doors and Windows

Installing a Room Air Conditioner
Installing a Room Air Conditioner

Here s another great tip from BobVila.com. Choosing a room or unit air conditioner wisely and installing it correctly can keep you from getting hot under the collar this summer. Room air conditioners are rated by the number of BTUs, or British thermal units, of heat that they can remove per hour. Contrary to what you might think, it doesn t make sense to run out and buy the most powerful unit you can find. You could wind up spending much more than you need to. Upgrading to the highest efficiency you can afford, however, is a good investment. In very hot climates you need an efficiency rating of 10, but 9 will do in milder climates. To calculate the number of BTUs you need, measure the room you re cooling and multiply by 35. A room that s 12 x12 or 144 square feet, for instance, needs a unit with a capacity of around 5,000 BTUs to keep it cool. If you ve got a shady window to install the unit, you can lower that number by 10 percent. For a sunny window, add 10 percent. If it s in the kitchen, add 4,000 BTUs. And if it s a room used by more than two people during cooling hours, add 600 BTUs per person. Most room air conditioners can be plugged into a standard 110V 15- or 20-amp circuit as long as it s not shared with any other major appliance. Larger 7.5-amp units need their own dedicated circuit. Make sure to measure the window you re installing in before you buy. While it should come with expandable filler panels, you ll need weatherstripping and tape to seal the unit to the window and keep heat from leaking in. Have some spare lumber and screws handy in case you need to build up the window frame or sill to accommodate the unit. Most importantly, have a friend help you. Even small air conditioners are heavier than they look and you don t want to drop the unit out the window. Find out more at BobVila.com: the ultimate home improvement web site! 2008 BobVila.com

weatherstripping

I have a older front door that has weatherstrip which is nailed in place. I have tried to find this weatherstrip at the chain home improvement centers here in town and no one sells it. They have weatherstrip but it is not wide enough. The weatherstrip they have is only 1/4 wide.

Jump To: Bulletin Board » Doors and Windows

French Door weatherstripping

I have a french door with one side permanently fixed. It has weather stripping at the bottom on both sides. It was easy to replace the side that opens but not the side that is fixed. It appears that the same type of weather stripping is nailed at two points.

Jump To: Bulletin Board » Doors and Windows

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