Every time I pick up a carpenter's square, it feels familiar. This… …flat steel or aluminum, the carpenter's square is actually shaped like an… …and stairway work. The carpenter's square can also be used as a straightedge…
Bob is joined by John Wellborn, from Wellborn Cabinets, and carpenter Paul Anderson for the kitchen cabinet installation. Wellborn clamps cabinet sections together to insure that the joints are nice and tight and that the units are square and flush. Next, a fluted pilaster is attached to the top. This will receive the crown molding that kitchen designer Darci Miller has chosen. Finally, the end panels are attached to each side. To secure the cabinets to the wall, Paul Anderson scores a line on the wall to ensure the units will be level. Then he attaches two-by-fours to the wall for the cabinets to rest on while they are being fastened. Once the cabinets are secure, the 2-by-4's are removed and the cabinet doors attached.
…arithmetic, just marking and cutting. CARPENTER'S SQUARE The carpenter's square isn't a four-sided figure - it's really… …uses. The calibrations on the face of a carpenter's square will include dimensions, usually down to…
Bob talks with lead framing carpenter Dan Enright as he and his crew work on the shed roof over the kitchen/family room area. What complicates the job is that the shed roof ends at the corner in a hip. This means the hip rafter will determine the lengths of all the different final rafters. Dan explains how using a speed square he can determine his top cut � a four-twelve on a 45-degree angle and his "bird-mouth" cut at the other end of the rafter where it sits on the sill plate of the outside wall. Bob points out that when framing a hip it's important to alternately counter a rafter from one side with one from the other to prevent bowing out the hip rafter. With the rafters in place, it's just a matter of adding OSB sheathing and the roof is on.
…top and right), as well as combination square and try square (bottom left). Traditionally, the larger metal squares like the rafter square were thought of as carpenter's tools. In contrast, smaller wooden or…
In this episode, Bob and Chris Vila are installing a Mahogany windowsill. It has been precut with a cleat and bevel to make the installation easier. The sills are large enough to be shelves, a nice characteristic of older construction techniques. Bob helps carpenter Abel Lopez of Two Trees Development install a piece of pre-primed Poplar molding to the floor edge with a butane-powered finish nailer and a wood adhesive. To aid in the construction timeline many trim pieces in this job are precut and pre-primed from the lumberyard. In the closet, Lopez is attaching shelving and trim as a closet organizer. As a nod to mid-century home design, Birch colored, hollow-core, flush sliding closet doors are added. They are easy to install and don't require the framing of a standard door or the complex installation of a pocket door.
The stairway leading up to the rear deck is composed of 1-by-four-inch Mahogany treads. The distance from the ground to the top of the finished deck measures 48 inches. To create a safe and comfortable staircase, carpenter Rob Lynch marks out a stair pattern with an eight-inch rise and nine-and-one-half-inch tread depth. Lynch cuts the risers with a circular saw, and fastens them to the deck using metal braces. The treads and kickboards are secured using eight-penny stainless-steel nails.
Bob is joined by Michael McDevitt of Therma-Tru Doors as Wes Lohr and his crew prepare for the installation of the pre-hung exterior door. Lohr has created a lead pan at the entry that laps up the sides and down the front of the opening and is then covered in silicon to make a weatherproof seal with the door assembly. The door itself has pressure-molded fiberglass skins with raised panels on the interior and exterior faces. These skins sit over a high-density polyurethane core with wood blocks at the lock set, sides, top, and bottom of the door for custom fitting and improved strength. The door is pre-hung and secured to keep it square until installed. To properly install a pre-hung door, the door assembly must be screwed into the jamb, not the casing, since only the jamb is structural and can prevent the door from sagging. Lohr and his crew tack the door into the opening, check it for square, then open it and screw it into place, through the jambs. Therma-Tru leaves two pre-drilled screw holes at the top of the door to screw it into the top jamb and prevent the door from sagging in. Once in place, the door only needs one coat of latex paint.
