When it comes to planning for your next household project, choosing the right drillbit can make your job much more efficient. The most common bit is called a twist. These are fine for basic woodworking. However, if the task involves more detailed drilling, using a spade or a brad point will give you cleaner holes with less effort. For even neater, more accurate results, try a forstner. It's a heavy duty, longer lasting bit.
Drilling the Hole. Place the drillbit on the center point indentation to lug or jams, withdraw the drill partway, allowing the bit to clear the debris from the drill more slowly. When a drillbit breaks through the far side rapidly
To hang heavy cabinet doors and to conceal the hardware, use mortised European-style hinges. Use a 35 mm drillbit and set your drill press to half inch depths. Place the holes a quarter inch from the door's edge and be careful, when you set the depth, not to drill through the door. Attach the hinge to the mortise, and then attach the door to the cabinet box. When the cabinets are installed, the hinges will be completely invisible.
Bob checks out the Trikeenan hand-made tiles in the bathroom and the plumbing fixtures selected for the remodeled bath. The Moen Waterhill showerhead, handles, and towel ring are all from the Moen ShowHouse Collection. Bob watches as Tim Berky drills into the tile to set the fittings for the towel ring. He stresses the importance of drilling slowly and of having a new carbide drillbit to avoid cracking or damaging the tile.
Richard Wagner of Wagner Cabinetry is in Punta Gorda for the installation of Cardell Maple cabinets. He starts with an overhead box that is marked for placement using a laser level. Since the exterior walls are concrete and the wall studs are steel, Bob asks how they handle installation. Wagner explains that as with wood, it's a matter of finding a stud and tacking with a finish nail before screwing the cabinets in place. Once tacked, the cabinets are checked again for level and screwed together with 2 1/2-inch flathead, square drive, zinc-coated screws with wood master tips that are serrated and cut through wood like a drillbit. With these screws, Wagner can avoid pre-drilling. After the doors are reattached and adjusted for swing, the crew moves to the base cabinet, which is nearly level and needs only be shimmed in the back. It is checked with a laser line at the wall and two feet out before being drilled in and finished with a toe kick. Bob shows the crown molding that is glued and tacked in place at the top of the cabinets for a finished look.
Here's a technique professional carpenters use to conceal nails or screws: use wooden plugs. Use a dowel bit to drill out the plugs. Dip each plug in carpenter's glue, and tap it into place over the nail or screw. Let the glue dry, then shear the plug off with a wood chisel. Sand the suface smooth and apply your finish.
Steve Nott of Steve Nott and Son Carpentry reviews the steps involved in installing the window shutters. The old shutter has been removed as it had fallen into a state of disrepair and might use lead paint. New shutters from J&L Shutters were used as replacements. The shutters are made from Permex, a synthetic material, and are pre-painted with a ten-year warranty. The shutters also have metal reinforcement through the stiles and historic-style hinges. The hinge section has already been attached to the shutter and the hinge pin is attached to the window casing. The shutter is a working shutter and can be closed to protect windows during a storm. Measurements for the screw holes have already been made. A pilot hole is then drilled into the wood. Pilot holes are important because drilling a screw into the wood without one can weaken the wood. Once the pins are in, the shutter is put into place. The shutter dog is then installed at the bottom to hold the shutter in an open position. First, the shutter dog is put in position and marked on the wall. A hole is then drilled into the stucco using a masonry bit. After the stucco is penetrated, the bit is switched to a standard bit to drill into the sheathing underneath. The use of the old-style hinges retains the historic appeal of the home. These shutters are resistant to rot and will last a long time.
Bob meets with blasting contractor Alan Dyke and takes a close look at the drilling rig as Alan and his crew prepare the site for blasting. The drill uses a button bit with carbide buttons set in steel. The holes are drilled five to six feet deep, down to the bedrock. With the final hole drilled, Alan shows Bob the emulsion stick, explosive chemicals with aluminum added for weight and a mercury cap that explodes when electrified. With the explosive placed into the hole and covered with peastone, Alan gives Bob the honor of detonating the blast.
A simple way to clean corrosion from a twist drillbit is to let your power drill help you. While applying oil to the bit at its point of entry, drill repeatedly into a block of hardwood secured in a vise. Friction of