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Bob interviews Larry Lelflar from Bonita Drywall as they hang drywall on a ceiling, then apply the first coat of tape and compound.

Here s another great tip from BobVila.com. Choosing a room or unit air conditioner wisely and installing it correctly can keep you from getting hot under the collar this summer. Room air conditioners are rated by the number of BTUs, or British thermal units, of heat that they can remove per hour. Contrary to what you might think, it doesn t make sense to run out and buy the most powerful unit you can find. You could wind up spending much more than you need to. Upgrading to the highest efficiency you can afford, however, is a good investment. In very hot climates you need an efficiency rating of 10, but 9 will do in milder climates. To calculate the number of BTUs you need, measure the room you re cooling and multiply by 35. A room that s 12 x12 or 144 square feet, for instance, needs a unit with a capacity of around 5,000 BTUs to keep it cool. If you ve got a shady window to install the unit, you can lower that number by 10 percent. For a sunny window, add 10 percent. If it s in the kitchen, add 4,000 BTUs. And if it s a room used by more than two people during cooling hours, add 600 BTUs per person. Most room air conditioners can be plugged into a standard 110V 15- or 20-amp circuit as long as it s not shared with any other major appliance. Larger 7.5-amp units need their own dedicated circuit. Make sure to measure the window you re installing in before you buy. While it should come with expandable filler panels, you ll need weatherstripping and tape to seal the unit to the window and keep heat from leaking in. Have some spare lumber and screws handy in case you need to build up the window frame or sill to accommodate the unit. Most importantly, have a friend help you. Even small air conditioners are heavier than they look and you don t want to drop the unit out the window. Find out more at BobVila.com: the ultimate home improvement web site! 2008 BobVila.com

The technique of faux painting adds grace and sophistication to any room. Striped effects create rich textures and handmade detail that cannot be matched by wallpaper patterns, and they make a room with a low ceiling appear taller.

A professional drywall finish has smooth seams and corners. A few tricks will help you to finish your drywall corners like a pro.

Bob talks to Ed Waller from CertaPro Painters about painting of the guest bedroom in the Melrose, Massachusetts, project. Waller explains that the paint being used is a latex paint which does not contain VOC's (volatile organic compounds). As a result, the room is free from noxious odors even as the paint is being applied. The no VOC paint actually holds to the walls better and is only a little more expensive than conventional paints. Two coats will be applied in this project so no spots are missed. Bob notes how the paint is being applied over the molding. Waller explains this is so no spots are missed and when they go back to paint the trim, a craftsman will paint with precise, straight lines to cover any molding gaps where it meets the wall. Bob is surprised that the radiator has been painted, but Waller says old radiators are often painted with latex paint with no negative effect on their heating ability. Bob asks how to find a good painter. Waller looks at the previous work they have done and who they have worked for, then trains them properly with full supervision in the field. Waller encourages the use of an extension pole when painting as, for a minor cost, it helps the painting process greatly. Weller also encourages painting in a direction from floor to ceiling to apply the paint evenly across the wall. When it comes to painting the trim, the crew uses a semi-gloss no VOC paint from the Sherwin Williams Harmony line. The primer that was used was also a no VOC paint from the same line. Painting the trim requires a steady hand and is the measure of a good paint job. Expensive brushes with synthetic, flared bristles are used while painting latex on the trim. Waller reviews proper painting technique using a pail to hold the paint, and gently tapping the sides of the pail with the brush to get rid of excessive paint before applying. Weller also gives tips for painting older panel doors. The door is painted entirely by brush rather than roller and work is done with tough stuff first working inside to out, top to bottom, and left to right. Bob reminds viewers to tape the hinges and remove the doorknobs and keyhole covers before painting. The tape is removed before the paint dries completely.