For a lot of jobs around the house, using a staplegun can be a lot faster and easier than banging tacks and nails. The most common staplegun is the hand-powered, springloaded variety. Standard guns accept staples from one quarter to nine sixteenths of an inch long. For a real time and energy saver, try a hammer stapler; the impact of the head with the surface releases the staple.
enough to make it bleed. I saw a staplegun at ********** that said it could be used to staple 12-2 sheathed electrical cable I think it was an Arrow T75 or similar staplegun. They are not cheap and I was wondering
screen extending beyond the side of each edge. Set the new screen in place. Step 10: Staple the bottom section in place. Use a staplegun to staple the bottom edge of the screen in place. Staple the bottom edge to the frame. Step
headboard. Tools you'll need: Jigsaw Mitre saw Staplegun 1/4 inch staples 1-inch wood screws Cordless drill frame at the top center. Pull the fabric taut as you staple but not so much that it puckers. Cut excess fabric from
fastening, how about a small set of screwdrivers; a staplegun; pairs of electrician's, waterpump, and locking and results in a somewhat cleaner work area. STAPLEGUN The staplegun can be used to fasten all kinds of materials in home
slipcover for an ottoman by draping a tablecloth over the piece, tucking and folding in the loose edges and using a staplegun to attach the cloth to the base, says Christy Furukawa, an interior designer and owner of Christy 4 Home Styling in
Bob is joined by Mikde Hobson of Westchester Insulation as the crew prepares one of the Mashpee houses for insulation installation. Hobson explains that this is a patented insulation system that uses special fabric stapled and drawn tight across any cavity that needs to be insulated. The crew works with pneumatic staplers to get the fabric in place across all the walls and the joists of the cathedral ceiling. The fabric is not intended as a moisture barrier of any kind and is just there to hold the insulation in place and prevent it from settling. Hobson shows Bob the white fiberglass that will be blown into the cavities. It is white because it is a virgin product, completely free of treatments, binders, or chemicals. Certainteed and Johns Manville both produce fiberglass insulation that is suitable for the Blow-In-Blanket installation. Once all cavities have been enclosed, the insulation contractor cuts a slit in the fabric and inserts a hose through which the fiberglass is blown. The cavity is filled to a density of two pounds per cubic foot which is visible to the eye by a slight bulge in the fabric. At this density, an R-value of 15 is achieved in two-by-four cavities like walls. In attics and ceiling cavities that are two-by-six, an R-value of 38 can be achieved. This insulation is inert and will not support moisture, mold, animals, or insects. It also serves as a sound insulator and can be blown in around drain lines, in interior partitions, and around tubs and showers. Blo-In-Blanket insulation is suitable for new construction or retrofit applications where it is blown in through the sheathing from the outside or through interior drywall to fill wall cavities. Blow-In-Blanket insulation costs about 50 to 60 percent more to install than traditional batt insulation, but offers such energy efficiency that it pays for itself within two to four years.
The PEX tubing is set in the concrete and will circulate hot water used to heat the addition. Jason McKinnon of Viega North America reviews the features of PEX tubing. PEX is electronically cross-linked polyethylene tubing that is made to be stronger and resistant to high temperatures and pressures. The PEX tubing was placed in the concrete slab. The concrete acts a low-temperature radiator for the tubing. High temperature water will be pumped through the coils and heat will dissipate into the slab. A heated slab acts as a radiant heat source for the home. Tim Cutler of TJ's Plumbing & Heating reviews how the tubing was placed within the slab. In a radiant-heat application, the tubing is evenly spread out across the floor. With radiant heat, the air is not heated, only the floor. The heat is modulated according to outside weather conditions so a precise amount of heat is sent through the coils to warm the building's interior to the desired temperature. A heat/loss analysis done on the home indicates that the tubing should have nine-inch spacing for five circuits. During manufacturing, the tubing has 10,000 volts sent through it which cause the molecules to cross-link. This makes the tubing virtually indestructible. An oxygen barrier is sprayed on it to protect the boiler and the heating system from oxygen infiltration, which causes cast iron boilers to deteriorate. A foam stapler pushes plastic clips with prongs into the foam decking to secure the tubing in place.
Bob visits with Leo Boudreau to learn how to recycle hardwood flooring from one room to another on a remodel project. First the floor must be salvaged. To do this a pry bar is use to lift and remove the wood piece by pieces in the opposite direction of installation. Then the wood is separated in grades depending on what shape the tongue and grooves are in or if they are there at all. From an economic standpoint, if the old floor was in good shape and the homeowner likes the look it makes sense, even in Boston�s high cost labor market. Leo shows how the old flooring is installed as if it were new flooring. Ryley shows Bob how to attach two groove ends together by using a spline.