Bob meets with Joe Adams and Ralph McGrath, in the media room of the Elm Court Cottage in the Berkshires. They are installing a sound attenuation, grid-ceiling system from Owens Corning�s QuietZone Acoustyle Wood Coffered Ceiling collection. A standard T-bar steel framing system used commonly in drop ceilings is used as the substructure for the engineered panels. The panels anchor to the grid and using carbonized steel expansion clips. The solid and perforated wood panels allow the sound to be absorbed through the ceiling and into the black acoustic board adhered to the ceiling above the suspended ceiling. QuietZone systems control sound waves in four ways: they absorb, block, break and isolate. By managing the energy of the sound wave, Owens Corning redefines ambient noise. The panels can be ordered in natural materials like Walnut or other fine woods.

Bob meets Tavino, the plastering contractor who is working on the ceiling. He is using a traditional patching method join an area where two ceilings meet. He fills in the gap with a basecoat of plaster instead of using drywall. The mix he uses for patching is thick enough that it stays in place on the ceiling. After putting down the basecoat he changes to a twelve-inch blade for a final pass to smooth out the plaster. After letting it set for an hour or two he comes back to add the first of two finish coats. He uses a topping joint compound made of non-cracking vinyl. He lays it on thinly and smoothes it out with a large trowel. He explains that the stair-stepped ceiling was made by affixing two extra sheets of drywall to the ceiling.

The type and shape of the roof on your home can help determine how well it will perform during a severe windstorm. A hipped roof is one that slopes upward from all sides of the building. Because of its aerodynamic properties and construction techniques, most hipped roofs will perform better in windstorms than the second roof type: a gabled roof. A gabled roof has two slopes that come together to form a ridge or a peak at the top, each end looks like the letter A. Homes with gabled roofs are more likely to suffer greater damage, such as collapse of the end wall from high winds because they are often not braced properly during construction. If your home is built with a gabled end wall, use one of the following construction techniques. Continuous wall construction or Balloon framing. Use full-height studs, concrete or solid masonry walls from the floor below all the way up to the roof. Balloon-framed gable end walls perform better in windstorms because they do not have the hinge that usually exists where the triangular part of the gable sits on top of the wall below. Platform framing. Brace the intersection of the gable and the end wall. This intersection is a particularly weak point and those that are not properly braced can collapse, causing major damage to the roof, allowing wind and wind driven rain into the home. In homes with attics, an attic floor or ceiling diaphragm with the proper bracing techniques can be used to provide the lateral support of the gable end wall if the end wall is framed full height. Install bracing along the top and the bottom of the gable end. In addition, connect the gable end to the top of the end wall using metal hurricane connectors. In homes with high cathedral-like ceilings, where there is no ceiling to brace the gabled end, will have to be balloon framed or will require a special design by a registered or licensed engineer.

House four of the Elmwood project. Replacing ceiling with a metal ceiling and Medallion cabinets install.

Bob meets with Meredith Schelp from Mitsubishi Electric HVAC to learn about the City-Multi HVAC system that will heat and cool the Manhattan Brownstone floor-through apartment. This system allows for simultaneous heating and cooling of separate zones throughout the apartment, so that a busy kitchen can be cooled while a quiet den or bedroom receives heat. The system uses outdoor and indoor units with variable drives to accommodate delivery demands. There will be three units installed in the apartment, each above the ceiling in vestibules where the ceilings can be dropped to hide them. Joseph Yannaco of Polar Mechanical Corporation explains that the interior units control the temperature and delivery of the conditioned air. The thermostatic controls run on sensors, so there's no need to keep the panels mounted visibly on interior walls. Ducts carry the heated or cooled air throughout the apartment.

The furred out walls from the 1940s, the oringinal lathe and plaster, and all the extra building materials have been removed from the 1890s Brownstone, leaving the original brick party walls. This allows for rigid insulation along the walls and built-out framing for the new windows. There has been a discovery during demolition -- original cornice work all around the perimeter of the front room, tthat was hidden by a drop ceiling, was found in near perfect condition. The plan is to restore it and skim coat the original ceiling, building back the areas where sleepers were hung to support the suspended ceiling. Now that the drop ceilings have been removed, the ceiling heights are 12.5 feet throughout. Looking up, Bob marvels at the quality workmanship of the craftsmen from the 1890s whose joistwork with cross bracing is still evident. Alongside the original joistwork is the cobbled job from a 1940s conversion that will need to be remedied during reconstruction.

Excessively tall staircase paint jobs that require scaffolding might be best left to the experts. For moderately tall jobs, a few easy steps will have the walls and ceilings looking new in no time.

With the right tools and a little preparation, a ceiling can be painted without difficulty.

Here's another great tip from BobVila.com. A dining room chandelier is a great focal point for one of the most important entertaining and family-gathering spaces in your home. You can spend anywhere from $100 to several thousand dollars on a chandelier and choose from an enormous variety of styles. From Tiffany stained glass and craftsman to colonial brass, Venetian glass and the traditional cut-crystal styles, the selection is dizzying. Here are some guiding principles to help you choose. First is style: when it doubt, keep very close to the period and architectural style of your house. If you re feeling brave and your d cor will support it, you might find an intentionally unexpected mix that expresses your personal taste. A wildly colorful modern glass piece can look great in a traditional dining room, as can a rustic iron piece in a modern loft. Next, find the right size for your room. Measure the room dimensions in feet and add them to find the suitable diameter in inches. For instance, a room that s 10 by 12 feet would look great with a 22-inch chandelier. Consider the size of your table. The chandelier should measure roughly a third of its width and hang 30 inches above it. If you don t have high ceilings, a multitiered chandelier is probably not the right choice. If it s hard to visualize how your favorite pick will look in the room, do a cardboard mockup. It will give you an idea of the space the fixture will occupy and help you find its correct installation point in the ceiling. You want the chandelier centered on your table, which is not necessarily centered in the room. While it will be the focal point, don t count on the chandelier as the only light source in the room. Wall sconces, recessed lights in the ceiling or table lamps will help illuminate the room without blinding those at the table. For power, estimate you ll need between 200 and 400 watts total, divided between all the bulbs. Install the chandelier on a dimmer switch so you can control the intensity of the light based on the occasion. Like most electrical jobs, this installation is best left to a licensed electrician. Find out more at BobVila.com: The ultimate home improvement web site! BobVila.com 2008

Here s another great tip from BobVila.com. Although the two words are often used interchangeably, sheetrock is actually a brand name for drywall, which is gypsum sandwiched between two sheets of paper or, more recently, between two sheets of fiberglass. Any way you say it, drywall makes finishing walls very practical. For large jobs or those with very high ceilings, hire a pro. But most smaller jobs can be tackled by do-it-yourselfers. Before you get started, run the side of a hammer head along the framing to check for uneven surfaces or any protruding staples or nails. The tools you ll need are a straightedge and measuring tape for sizing your pieces, a utility knife for scoring and snapping, and a keyhole saw or rotary tool for cutting holes for outlets and windows. While some pros still attach drywall with nails, most find it easier to use an electric drill and that wonderful multi-purpose fastener, the drywall screw. You ll need about a pound of nails or screws for every 5 sheets of drywall. Metal corner beads go on all outside corners; inside corners get taped along with the joints between panels. Using pre-mixed joint compound is easier and less messy than mixing your own. You want a mix that s not too quick-drying if you re a beginner so you have a grace period to work in. Pros use about 5 gallons of compound for every 100 square feet, but you may need more depending on your level of experience. Installing drywall involves a series of short steps over a 3- to 4-day period. Follow the steps on BobVila.com for taping and finishing joints, and be sure to wear safety gear and a dust mask while sanding. If you re doing a ceiling, get a helper or a drywall lift. Find out more at BobVila.com: the ultimate home improvement web site! 2008 BobVila.com