Here s another great tip from BobVila.com. Although the two words are often used interchangeably, sheetrock is actually a brand name for drywall, which is gypsum sandwiched between two sheets of paper or, more recently, between two sheets of fiberglass. Any way you say it, drywall makes finishing walls very practical. For large jobs or those with very high ceilings, hire a pro. But most smaller jobs can be tackled by do-it-yourselfers. Before you get started, run the side of a hammer head along the framing to check for uneven surfaces or any protruding staples or nails. The tools you ll need are a straightedge and measuring tape for sizing your pieces, a utility knife for scoring and snapping, and a keyhole saw or rotary tool for cutting holes for outlets and windows. While some pros still attach drywall with nails, most find it easier to use an electric drill and that wonderful multi-purpose fastener, the drywall screw. You ll need about a pound of nails or screws for every 5 sheets of drywall. Metal corner beads go on all outside corners; inside corners get taped along with the joints between panels. Using pre-mixed joint compound is easier and less messy than mixing your own. You want a mix that s not too quick-drying if you re a beginner so you have a grace period to work in. Pros use about 5 gallons of compound for every 100 square feet, but you may need more depending on your level of experience. Installing drywall involves a series of short steps over a 3- to 4-day period. Follow the steps on BobVila.com for taping and finishing joints, and be sure to wear safety gear and a dust mask while sanding. If you re doing a ceiling, get a helper or a drywall lift. Find out more at BobVila.com: the ultimate home improvement web site! 2008 BobVila.com

Bob meets up with Bill Reid of US Gypsum in the barn of the Medford project. Bill differentiates imperial board (blue board) which is skim coated from drywall (gypsum panels) where the joints are taped. In 2000 US Gypsum developed a new core technology that makes the boards stronger and lighter - for easier handling, cutting, and scoring. The screw spacing is 12 inches on center with the screws flush with the paper providing a good, solid adherence to the wall with the screws. The face paper is treated and absorbent to take the veneer plaster and create the bond. These new boards snap cleanly on the ends. The installer puts a back cut on the edge so that the back of the sheet doesn't hit before the front does. The blue board and skimcoat application is typically not a do-it-yourself project. Traditional plaster jobs were very cost prohibitive so, when veneer plasters came along, they became very popular as they give a much more monolithic look than gypsum panels while providing an abuse resistant finish. Upstairs in the studio the homeowner has specified blue board with veneer plaster and downstairs, where he wants the option to tack artwork to the wall, he has specified a traditional drywall and tape application.

Finished walls begin with drywall that is level and smooth. Simple tricks will help you hang drywall like a pro.

Plumbing or electrical work can leave a hole in drywall. With a few simple techniques, you can repair the hole so it's invisible when finished.

Properly driving and finishing the screws that hold drywall in place gives a smooth look to new walls.

Start by putting a large sheet of drywall and marking a location to make a cut. Next, snap a chalk line, score the drywall and snap the piece. Repeat this process for the second angle. Finally, trim the back of the angle cut and cut with a utility knife to ensure a snug fit.

Bob is back on the first floor of the barn with Bill Reid from US Gypsum where the crew is installing drywall. This is a traditional installation with drywall wallboard and taped joints. Before hanging the boards the crew takes some measurements so that they can avoid putting a ripped piece in the center. If they installed the drywall with an eight inch piece in the center it would create a weak spot on the board between two studs. The screw spacing on drywall should be 16 inches on center. The installer uses a roto-zip to make cut-outs. Once in place the wall is ready for tape and joint compound.

Smooth, taped seams give walls a finished look. Whether you use paper or adhesive tape for your walls, the taping and finishing methods are the same.

Here s another great tip from BobVila.com. U.S. Gypsum developed a way to sandwich plaster between two paper faces and make wallboard as early as World War I, but the manpower shortage of World War II is what really made it catch on. Before drywall, builders nailed lengths of wood, called lath, to the studs and then applied several coats of plaster to that for a smooth finish. As many of us with old houses can attest, lath and plaster walls can last a long time but they re hard to deal with if you re having rewiring, insulation and plumbing needs. Drywall comes in various thicknesses. For interior walls, one-half-inch works fine but won t stand up to heavy abuse. Five-eighth-inch is required for fire hazard walls like garages and basement entries. Standard paper-faced drywall is grey and comes in 4x8 or 4x12 sheets, designed to make it easy to cover from stud to stud with minimal cutting. But even cutting is made easy. Most drywall scores and snaps with a simple utility knife. Holes can be cut by hand with a short keyhole saw or a small rotary tool. Special fiberglass-faced drywall was recently introduced to help prevent mold problems that can develop when traditional paper-faced drywall gets wet. This new product finishes just like paper-faced drywall with tape and joint compound. Behind tile, in bathrooms and in other wet areas, it s important to use cement board. This denser product is waterproof and faced with fiberglass mesh that won t degrade or mold when it gets wet. In the past, some builders used a product called green board in bathrooms, but time has shown that this product is not a good substitute for cement board. Find out more at BobVila.com: the ultimate home improvement web site! 2008 BobVila.com

Here s another great tip from BobVila.com. Drywall has been the wall finishing material of choice for most of a century because it s so easy to install and finish. Another of its virtues is that when it s damaged, it s easy to repair. For scratches or small dents, a quick swipe of joint compound with a 3- or 4-inch putty knife and a bit of sanding before priming and painting will do fine. For small holes up to 3 inches, self-adhesive plastic mesh tape and then a coat or two of patching compound will work. For medium-sized holes between 4 and 6 inches, try a drywall bandage. Check to make sure there s no electrical wiring in the area first, then use a keyhole saw to cut the hole into a neat square or rectangle. Transfer that shape onto a piece of new drywall, add 2-inch margins and cut out the larger patch piece. Trim off the back and gypsum in the 2-inch margin but leave the face paper uncut. Spread patching compound around the outside edges of the hole and press the bandage into it, feathering the edges. Let it dry. Then sand and re-coat with compound. Finally, sand again, prime and paint. For really big holes, you can use the tie and twist bracing method. Cut a piece of drywall or a length of 2x4 a few inches larger than the hole. Drill two small holes in the center and loop a 2-foot string through it like a button. Tie the ends around the middle of a stick. Apply adhesive to the back edges of the hole inside the wall. Adhere the patch piece and twist the stick from your side of the wall until it holds tight. Then, fill the remaining space with drywall patch pieces and mesh tape. Finish with compound as usual, cutting the string and pulling it out just before it dries. For super-large holes bigger than a foot wide, cut the drywall back to the two nearest studs and expose them halfway. Cut a new panel of drywall to fit and attach it as you normally would with drywall screws, joint compound and tape. Find out more at BobVila.com: the ultimate home improvement web site! 2008 BobVila.com