Bob visits a Heat n' Glo showroom where Ross Morrison shows him a variety of direct-vent gas fireplaces. With a sealed glass chamber there is no interplay of of room air�no products of combustion will get into the room and it doesn't use any of the the room's already warm air for combustion. The fireplace inserts come with ceramic fiber logs. When the flames hit the logs they produce a nice glow. The logs are light, unbreakable, and last a lifetime. Ross shows Bob the 6000 TRXI, a premium model that is rated as a furnace. It has a beautiful masonry appearance inside and a pumps out enough BTUs to heat a 1200 - 1500 sq. ft. house. The fireplace also offers the option of turning the flames down or off or opening the climate control damper to cut the heat by one half.

Jack Murdock from RMI and Craig Ryans from Vermont Castings of Mississauga, Ontario, demonstrate how simple it is to have gas appliances and heat in a rural location. With a 500 gallon underground or exterior tank, enough fuel is stored on site for most common uses and requires just a few fill ups a year. The stove being installed, a Vermont Castings product, uses a direct vent technology that draws no interior air to aid in combustion. The unit pulls air in from outside through a cylinder pipe and releases exhausts outside as a typical furnace would. Gas appliances and heat function during power failures, although electric fans that circulate the heat will not work without an auxillary power supply. The fireplace installed in the Modular Mountain Retreat project home will provide 30,000 BTUs of heat. A realistic ceramic grate burner and ceramic logs enhance the fireplace�s look.

A vent pipe is installed in the ranch's roof. A hole is cut and a shield added to created a weather tight seal around the pipe and roof shingles. Down in the basement the new vent pipe is added to the home's existing plumbing.

Bob meets with Mark Gallivan from Sears HVAC and Brent Morin from Morin Mechanical Services to review the heating system installation at the modular home project. The high efficiency, state of the art Hydro-Air system uses components of a traditional boiler, humidifiers, variable speed fans, electronic air cleaners and three exterior condensing units. Carrier manufactures many of the heating unit�s components including the boiler. The boiler produces hot water for both a forced air unit and a baseboard radiant heating system. The forced air unit allows for a consistent level of humidity in the house, that traditionally radiant-only units cannot accomplish, plus it receives the efficiency of radiant by employing a baseboard system. This gives the home�s occupants a more comfortable living environment. There are seven zones employed in the home�s heating and cooling system. The cast aluminum heat exchanger in this unit transfers heat three times faster than a traditional heat exchanger. The boiler uses a direct venting system that takes air directly from outside and vents it through a flue located in the center of the intake vent. This means no combustion gases are being mixed with the home�s interior air. The system�s zones can be turned on or off as needed, providing an added level of efficiency if the entire home is not being occupied at a given time.

Bob Vila shows a Victorian Style house where the rough plumbing is being installed. The house has a half basement with the remainder being just crawlspace. Bob meets Jim Timino the plumbing contractor who is running PVC pipe for the rough plumbing. Jim is installing a 2" waste line from the kitchen that will run to the main waste stack or piping. The main waste piping is 4" PVC and it runs into the sewer system in the backyard. Jim demonstrates how to properly cement or glue PVC fittings with the PVC pipe. They also take a look at the master bedroom suite, which will be magnificent because of its roominess and the extravagant master bathroom. They show the vent piping from the basement to the roof including a future vent that is required by Massachusetts Plumbing Code. The vent pipes allow proper drainage as well as a place for sewer gas to be expelled outside of the home. Bob tours the upstairs children�s bedrooms and overviews the header vent pipe and how it interconnects all the waste pipes in the home.

If your home is not protected by impact-resistant windows and doors; or impact resistant shutters or panels; consider building your own temporary emergency panels. Step One: Plan the Project. Count and measure each window and door that has glass including French doors, sliding glass doors as well as skylights. You might also want to include roof and gable end vents or any opening that if damaged would allow wind to enter your home. Measure each opening horizontally inside the exterior trim and vertically from the sill to the bottom of the top trim. Add eight inches to both the height and width to provide a four-inch overlap on all sides. When measuring a window with an extended sill measure from the top of the sill to the top of the window and add four inches instead of eight. Sheets of plywood are generally 4 feet by 8 feet. This will help determine how many sheets to buy. Be sure to purchase plywood that is 5/8 inch or greater, exterior grade (CDX). Step Two: Assemble Your Tools and Hardware. You will need a circular saw, drill and drill bits, hammer and wrench, work gloves and safety goggles for this project. You will also need an assortment of hardware including bolts, wood or masonry anchors, nuts and large washers. A range of bolts may be used because different bolts will be needed for wood frame versus masonry homes. Wood Homes use lag screws and plastic coated permanent anchors Masonry Homes use expansion bolts and galvanized permanent expansion anchors Step Three: Get Started Having someone help you with this project will make things a lot easier. First drill holes in the same diameter as the bolts or screws, 2-inches in from the edges of the plywood at each corner and at 12-inch intervals around the panel. Next hold the plywood firmly in place over the opening to mark where to drill mounting holes. If the window sill is flush to the wall, secure the plywood on all four sides. If the window sill extends out at the bottom, secure the plywood on the top and sides. For windows 3 feet by 4 feet or smaller installed on a wood frame house, use 1/4-inch lag screws and plastic coated permanent anchors. The lag screws should penetrate the wall and frame surrounding the window at least 1 3/4 inches. For larger windows, use 3/8-inch lag screws that penetrate the wall and frame surrounding the window at least 2 1/2 inches. For windows 3 feet by 4 feet or smaller installed on a masonry house, use 1/4 inch expansion bolts and galvanized permanent expansion anchors. The expansion bolts should penetrate the wall at least 1 1/2 inches. For larger windows, use 3/8-inch expansion bolts that penetrate the wall at least 1 1/2 inches. If a window or door is larger than a sheet of plywood, you will need to join the panels with 2X4 bracing along the entire seam. Attach the 2X4s to the outside of the plywood panel with 10 gauge, 2 inch long galvanized screws (exterior deck screws) spaced every 4 inches. Use the widest side of the 2X4 to run the length of the entire seam. When youre done, mark each panel with the name of the opening so you will quickly know where to install it when a storm is approaching. Store the panels, washers and nuts together in a location away from the elements. Consider waterproofing the panels with paint or a sealant.

Here's another great tip from BobVila.com. While you were having fun in the sun this summer, it was no vacation for your house. Sun, wind and rain can cause as much wear and tear as snow and ice. A fall checklist will tip you off to some problems before they become nasty mid-winter surprises. Check your house from top to bottom. Start by inspecting the roof with binoculars: Are your shingles worn or failing? Check the attic for signs of leaks around the skylights or vents, chimneys, and have your chimney cleaned once a year. Clear out your gutters and check for leaks there, too. Drain your outside hose spigots if you live where pipes can freeze. Switch your screens for storm windows, and seal any drafty windows and doors. The same goes for paint and siding: make sure you caulk or repair those gaps around windows, doors, trim and vents, and replace any siding that is failing. In the basement, check for dampness on the floor and walls, test your sump pump, flush your water heater and check for any signs of leakage. Clean your dryer vent regularly. Make sure that paints or any flammable materials are stored away from heat sources in a closed metal cabinet. And make that appointment to have your heating system serviced yearly. Do the top-to-bottom check this fall, and you ll avoid expensive surprises this winter! Find out more at BobVila.com: The ultimate home improvement web site! BobVila.com 2008

Here s another great tip from BobVila.com. Before you crank up the A/C this summer to keep cool, try a little old-fashioned ventilation first. Just keeping air moving can make your home feel much cooler. But it goes beyond opening a window. There s a little science to it. If you live where the nights are cool, keep your house sealed during the heat of the day. If it s well-insulated, it should only heat up about a degree an hour. Open windows and circulate cool air in the evening and early morning. Get some cross-ventilation going by opening windows on opposite sides of the house. Homes designed with cupolas, clerestory windows, vented skylights or even attic vents have the ability to create what s called a thermosiphon. Hot air escaping from the top of the house pulls warm air with it from the rest of the house and cooler air through lower windows, creating a constant cooling flow. Take advantage of those features or install an attic fan to create the same effect. It helps to minimize the heat you generate inside the house by using the oven, dishwasher and dryer in the evening or early morning hours. Even light bulbs can heat things up, so making the most of the daylight is both cheaper and cooler. If you still can t get the air moving, there s always the underappreciated window fan. For much less than it costs to run your air conditioner, a fan can give you the summer breeze you re looking for. Find out more at BobVila.com: the ultimate home improvement web site! 2008 BobVila.com

Here s another great tip from BobVila.com. Mold problems are present in about four out of 10 American homes. With the often prohibitive costs and dubious results of professional mold remediation, more and more homeowners are looking for ways to take care of mold problems themselves. If mold is affecting an area less than 10 square feet and your household doesn t include anyone who is very young, very old or immune-compromised, you can tackle the problem yourself if you re careful. First, consult the EPA s web site and read about the different levels of mold infestation and the levels of protection they require, both for you and for the rest of your house. Mold spreads by sending out millions of airborne spores. Disturbing a mold infestation can send the spores flying and make your problem worse and more widespread unless you seal off the area and protect yourself. Seal off any heat or air vents to the affected area, and install a window fan to pull air to the outside. Seal off the area with plastic sheeting taped over the doorway. Never touch mold with your bare hands, get it in your eyes or breathe it. Wear a disposable work suit or clothing you can throw away after the job is done. Wear a respirator, gloves and goggles, and shower well after you ve finished. Contrary to popular belief, you cannot kill mold with bleach. It might remove the appearance, but it won t get the roots, which will re-bloom in a matter of days, sometimes hours, if the area remains wet. In general, the best way to get rid of mold is to remove the affected materials altogether and rebuild. Removal is your only option if the moisture came from grey water or sewage. If the moisture source was clean, use a wet vac or steamer to remove wet or loose debris first and double-bag it in heavy trash bags. Then damp-wipe or scrub with detergent and water, but don t soak the surface. When it s thoroughly dry, vacuum again with a HEPA vacuum. Double-bag the vacuum contents and thoroughly clean or replace the vacuum s filter. You can dispose of the bags of debris with the rest of your trash. If the moisture problem that invited the mold in the first place has been fixed and the area remains completely dry, the mold may not re-grow. Find out more at BobVila.com: the ultimate home improvement web site! 2008 BobVila.com

Bob opens the segment with a look at the Certainteed Landmark shingles selected for this project. Fabricated with a dragon's tooth angle, the Landmark shingles give the impression of a handsplit shake roof. Next Bob flashes back to the construction of the roof. Starting with the raising of the laminated veneer lumber (LVL) ridge beam onto the gable ends, Bob walks the viewer through the various steps in the process - laying out 20 foot 2 by 10s for the rafters, marking a ridge cut at the top of each rafter and a crow's foot at the bottom, positioning and securing the rafters to both sides of the ridge starting at the center, applying the CDX plywood sheathing followed by an ice and water barrier as underlayment for the first course of shingles, nailing on the aluminum drip edge, and finally laying out and applying the first course of shingles. Once the first course is finished, felt paper is stapled to the rest of the sheathing as underlayment. After the roofers have finished shingling all the way to the top, they add ridge vents and soffit vents to prevent moisture from building up under the shingles.