One of the key aspects of refinishing a basement is making sure it's dry and warm. Bob talks with Larry Janesky of Basement Systems about the steps taken to keep the Melrose basement dry. An interlocking plastic underlayment works as a subfloor for the basement floor. It's very important not to have organic material on the floor as it will be susceptible to mold from water vapor. Before the underlayment was put in place however, a perimeter drain was dug into the basement floor. The perimeter drain sends the water to a sump pump system. The system installed is called a Triple Safe System as it has three pumps inside; an AC pump, an AC backup, and a DC battery backup pump. Using this system, the basement should stay flood-proof. There is some standing water where the sump pump is being installed but this should not be a problem since the system has an air-tight lid on it so water cannot evaporate back into the home. A charger box for the sump pump alerts the homeowner when the pump is running on battery backup. Ice guard fittings have been placed over the pipes that carry the water to the exterior of the home so that water will drain even when water in the pipes is frozen. In an older home like this one, the foundation may be a little weaker and more porous than homes built today. To prevent rain water from seeping in through the foundation, a vapor barrier was installed. A product called Clean Space was also installed over the walls to direct water buildup from condensed water vapor into the perimeter drain. A flood ring was installed around the water heater, which will drain water into the perimeter drain. Dehumidifiers in basements should be basement rated. Normal dehumidifiers are designed to take water out of warmer air and might not be adequate for dehumidifying basements. A SaniDry Basement Air System was installed in the basement of the Melrose home. It can process 100 pints per day and has air filtration built into it. The system is Energy Star rated and will perform well in basement environments.

Bob meets with Beth Judge of Clemson University to review hazard-resistant building techniques at a demonstration house used to teach builders and architects in Charleston, South Carolina.

Here s another great tip from BobVila.com. It s certainly not new on the scene, but in this age of tightly built homes, mold is the new public enemy #1 for homeowners. And here s the big news: Bleach won t get rid of it! Molds have evolved over billions of years to thrive anywhere there s water and food. They spread through microscopic airborne spores that are present in the air we breathe. Surprisingly, there s really no such thing as a mold-free environment. All mold spores need to take root are constant moisture and organic material to feed on. Your mold problem could begin with something as small as a leak in your bathroom tile, creating the ideal conditions on the wood framing and paper-faced drywall of your bathroom wall. It s estimated that 40 percent of American homes have a mold problem. We know mold can follow a flood, but it can also happen when interior air is over-humidified or there s not enough ventilation. It can happen behind vinyl wallpaper or any other vapor barrier. And it can happen when a roof leaks or because of a leaky toilet or appliance. While our grandmothers would have washed moldy areas with bleach, we now know that some mold species have evolved to resist bleach on porous surfaces. While it will remove staining temporarily, the mold s roots, or mycilla, remain embedded in anything organic and regrow in as little as 24 hours. Flood victims who have relied on bleach report that in as little as three days their mold problem comes back with a vengeance. Mold remediation has become big business. Faced with tens of thousands of dollars worth of work with toxic chemicals, which may or may not be more harmful than the mold itself, some homeowners have had no choice but to tear down and rebuild or move. It s important to catch mold problems early. If you suspect mold, check the EPA s web site for instructions on removing it. Removing the affected material altogether is usually safest. But if it s an area larger than 10 square feet or there are very young or older folks living in your house, don t try to do it yourself. Find out more at BobVila.com: the ultimate home improvement web site! 2008 BobVila.com